MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

1906 



BY 

LEONORA C. MACKEY 



luBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Kecewoo 

DEC 16 .907 

^ Copyn«ra tnuy 
CLASS 4- XXc. NO 
COPY B. 



\\X 



Copyright 1907 

by 

Leonora C. Mackey 



LEONORA'S DIARY. 



It was in July of 1906 that I took my first 
trip to Europe. I intended, before sailing, to 
go to the country with my family for a few days. 
Accordingly, we left Broad Street Station on 
the morning of the 5th of July, at nine o'clock, for 
Stroudsburg. It was a beautiful day and we 
enjoyed the ride very much. We arrived at 
Stroudsburg about noon. Mr. Dickerson met 
us at the station and drove us to the Inn. After 
having made us comfortable in our rooms, he 
announced to us that luncheon would be served 
at 1.30. There were very few people staying 
there, so it seemed rather dismal, but as we 
were hungry we managed to eat as only hungry 
people can after traveling half a day. There 
was little or nothing to do there so Mrs. B. and 
I decided to leave on the following afternoon. 

When the appointed hour arrived for our de- 
parture, we said good-bye to our loved ones 
who were to remain there .for the summer. We 
drove to the station and took the four o'clock train 
3 



to New York, to join Miss S., with whom we 
were to travel in Europe. 

On our arrival in New York we drove to the 
Manhattan Hotel, where Miss S. had selected 
beautiful apartments for us. We washed and 
dressed a little for dinner, after which we sat 
in our rooms and talked over our plans, as 
we had not yet secured our passage. We retired 
about ten o'cock that night. 

Next morning, the 7th of July, we arose early, 
and after breakfast drove to several steamship 
offices to try to engage passage, but were told 
we could get nothing until later in the season. 
We then decided to go to Boston and try there. 
We went back to the hotel, had our trunks put 
on a 'bus and drove to the Grand Central Station, 
where we took the three o'clock express to 
Boston. 

We arrived there about nine o'clock that even- 
ing, which was Saturday, and drove to the Belle- 
vue Hotel. I retired immediately, as I felt quite 
sick, having contracted a cold. 

The next day, Sunday, I rested until four 
o'clock in the afternoon, when we went out to 
walk on Commonwealth Avenue and along the 
Commons. 



On Monday we arose bright and early, eager 
to go to the steamship office to see what we could 
do there, and to our pleasant surprise found 
just what we wanted, two nice rooms on the 
"Ivernia." We hurried back to the hotel and re- 
packed our trunks for the steamer, as we were to 
sail the next day. After luncheon we went out to 
buy a steamer rug and a few necessary articles 
for the voyage. 

Oh, how long it seemed until the next day! 
I was sorry to leave those behind me, yet I must 
say I was feverish with delight, as it was my first 
trip and had been the dream of my life. But, 
all things come to those who wait patiently, and 
that memorable day, the loth of July, arrived 
in due time. 

After breakfast our trunks and hand-luggage 
were again put on a four-wheeler, and we drove 
over to East Boston to the docks. After our 
luggage was labeled for London we walked 
up the gang-plank and boarded the "Ivernia." 
We went directly to our staterooms, after which 
we looked up the deck steward, and had our 
steamer chairs placed to our liking. At 12.30 
the "Ivernia" left her pier, while friends of those 
on board stood on the docks and waved their 



handkerchiefs and flags until they looked like 
tiny specks in the distance. Thus we said good- 
bye to dear America. 

There were quite a number of Bostonians on 
board, but we made no steamer acquaintances, 
and, as I felt so sick, with the cold I had taken, 
I spent the first few days in bed. Miss S. and 
Mrs. B. were very kind to me, popping in now 
and then to see if they could do anything for me. 

Then, after four days had passed, I felt quite 
like myself, and went up on deck again, sat in 
my steamer chair and watched the beautiful 
ocean. How strange it seemed to be surrounded 
by nothing but water ! Then, at night, as I lay 
in my berth, I could hear the man who keeps 
watch in the crow's nest call out ''All is well." 
Thus the time passed away, the same thing each 
day, walking up and down the deck, or sitting 
in our steamer chairs reading, till at last we were 
nearing the end of the voyage, which had been 
very smooth, owing to fine weather and the stead- 
iness of the boat. 

The i8th of July arrived, which was the day 
before landing. We were up at 5.30, dressed 
and on deck at six o'clock, when we saw the Irish 
coast, which looked dim in the distance. At 



6.25 we saw the first light-house, and passed 
the steamship "Majestic" at 9.30. You can 
imagine my eagerness now to see land, having 
spent eight days on the water. At twelve o'clock 
noon, we made a landing at Oueenstown. In 
the afternoon we packed our steamer trunks 
and suit cases. 

Next day, the 19th of July, we landed at 
Liverpool, at nine o'clock in the morning, and it 
was a beautiful sight to see the vessel taken into 
port. After having our trunks examined, which 
was so exciting and strange to me, we took the 
train to London. We got into the funny little 
compartment with seats for six, three on each 
side, but very comfortable. We were then 
locked in. They blew a whistle, not the ringing 
of a bell as we have here, and then we found our- 
selves flying over the London and Northwestern 
Railway, arriving at London at two p. m. 

Busy old London, that I had longed so to 
see ! We had our trunks put on a four-wheeler 
and were driven to the Westminster Palace 
Hotel. The porter met us at the door and 
ushered us in. After a few words with the man 
in the office as to rooms, we were shown the lift, 
which took us to the second sleeping floor, where 



8 

our apartments, two large stately rooms, with 
high ceilings and old-fashioned furniture, were 
located. 

We then rang for the maid, who was a tall 
slender English girl, with very red cheeks, and 
a cap pinned on the back of her head, or rather, 
a bow knot with streamers that hung to her 
waist, reminding me of apron strings. She 
greeted us with, "Yes, madam," and when I or- 
dered tea and biscuits she said, "thank you," 
with a rising inflection, and left us. But she 
soon returned with a large tray, upon which was 
tea, hot milk and biscuits, and to which we did 
justice. I was then beginning to feel very 
English ! 

After having so refreshed ourselves. Miss S. 
thought it best to look for a nice Pension, as we 
were to stay two weeks in London. We then 
had the porter call us a four-wheeler and drove 
out to Queen's Gardens, Lancaster Gate, a very 
pretty street in the West End of London, where 
Miss S. had stopped several years before. We 
found, on our arrival there, that it had changed 
hands, but was conducted under the same man- 
agement. They had what we wanted, so we 
arranged to go there the next day. In the even- 



ing we sat in our rooms with an open-grate fire 
which was indeed comfortable, as the nights in 
London are often chilly, even in July. 

July 20th, after breakfast, we again had our 
trunks put on a four wheeler and drove to 
Queen's Gardens, where we stayed during my 
first visit to London. The "lady-help," a poor thin 
little thing, that looked as if she had never 
known anything but hard work, met us at the 
door. She informed us that our rooms were 
not yet in order, but we might wait in the draw- 
ing-room which was on the second floor. After 
awhile the maid appeared and told us our rooms 
were ready. She, too, had the apron strings 
pinned on the back of her head. She said her 
name was Katie. We were beginning to make 
the acquaintance of the service! Next came 
Joseph, a little Frenchman with blue eyes, 
who looked half frightened because he did not 
understand English very well. Oh, how his face 
lighted up when Miss S. spoke to him in French ! 

After luncheon, we walked over to Queen's 
Road, a short distance, to the station, and took 
the ''tuppenny tube" and rode down town. Miss 
S., having been in London before, knew just 
where to take us. We went first to Brown 



10 

Shipley's and got letters of credit and gave orders 
for our mail. We then walked up old Bond 
Street, stopped in Makenzie's tea room, and had 
tea. We found great difficulty in crossing the 
streets. We rushed first to the island in the 
center of the street^ where a "bobby" usually 
stands and waited till he held up his hand, for 
the wagons and hansoms to stop, then rushed 
to the other side. 

After looking the shops over on Regent and 
Bond Streets we returned to Queen's Gardens 
and unpacked our trunks and dressed for din- 
ner which was served at seven o'clock. In the 
evening we remained at home and talked over 
what we had seen. 

July 2 1st was a beautiful day. After break- 
fast we went to the National Gallery and spent 
the entire morning looking at the many beauti- 
ful paintings. It is impossible to describe in 
detail the varied art treasures contained in the 
Gallery. One can only carry away a recollec- 
tion of a limited number which especially make 
their impression. Those which stand out most 
prominently in my memory are the marvelous 
picture of the Holy Family, by Murillo, the pic- 
ture of Richelieu, the celebrated one of Charles 



II 

I on horseback, a number of Rosa Bonheur's 

pictures of dogs and other animals, and the 

very HfeHke portrait of Gladstone, and one of 

a very disagreeable subject which impressed me 

deeply. It was a picture of a beautiful woman 

with the bleeding heart of her lover clasped to 

her bosom and the tears standing out in her 

eyes, the exemplification of grief and despair. 

After we left the Gallery, we went to Maken- 

zie's tea room and had lunch. Also bought 

gloves at a store on Bond Street, then took the 

Bayswater 'bus and rode to Hyde Park. There 

we sat down on chairs, for which we paid a 

penny each, to rest before going home, as Queen's 

Gardens is but a short distance from the park. 

July 22. — In the morning we went down town, 

walked up Trafalgar Square in which stands the 

statue of the Duke of Wellington and those 

magnificent lions on either side; facing once 

more the National Gallery, with the old Church 

of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields on the opposite 

corner. We then retraced our steps and walked 

along the Strand to the Cecil Hotel where we 

took coffee, then called a four-wheeler and told 

the **cabby" to drive us home. We then had 

lunch, after which we went to Hyde Park to see 



12 

the Prince Albert Memorial, a gift from Queen 
Victoria and the people. Also had tea there out 
in the open. 

In the evening we went to Earl's Court ex- 
hibition, of which the amusement features seemed 
to be the most interesting. 

July 2^. — After breakfast we rested about an 
hour, then took a four-wheeler and drove down 
town, passed Buckingham Palace, and saw King 
Edward's carriage there. He had just alighted 
and was walking through the grounds to the 
palace attended by many guards. We then drove 
on to Westminster Abbey. On entering, I was 
awed by the magnificence of the architecture, 
but I offered up a prayer for every one worthy 
and otherwise. We passed through the various 
recesses and read inscriptions on many of the 
tombs ; also saw the Royal Chapel and were 
deeply impressed by the solemnity of it all. 

Leaving the Abbey, with its ghostly and chilly 
atmosphere, we emerged once more into the 
bright sunlight and pursued our sight-seeing. 
Passing the Houses of Parliament, we walked 
over London Bridge and afterward strolled along 
the Victoria Embankment. After this we drove 
to Marshall and Snellgrove, one of the best 



^3 

department stores in London^ and did some 
shopping. In the evening we stayed at home. 

July 24. — We spent the entire day at Kew 
Gardens, an extensive pubHc park which con- 
tains a large number of very fine old trees and 
many hot-houses with very rare plants, each 
labeled with their botanical names. The natural 
beauty, together with the beautiful landscape 
gardening, makes it deeply interesting. They 
are probably the finest public gardens in Europe. 
At noon we had luncheon at a little inn at the 
entrance of the gardens. We returned home 
late in the afternoon, rested a while, then dressed 
for dinner and went to Earl's Court again in 
the evening. 

July ^5. — After breakfast we walked over to 
Queen's Road Station, took the "tuppenny tube/' 
and rode down to the Bank of England, then 
walked through Threadneedle Street to the Min- 
ories and on to the Tower of London. This was 
the prison in which the poor wretches who had 
offended royalty were incarcerated and frequently 
shortened by a head's length. We saw there 
the "Traitor's Gate," the room containing the 
crown jewels, the armory, the stone stairs be- 
neath which the two princes who were supposed 



14 

to have been murdered in the Tower are said 
to have been buried, and many other objects 
of interest. Leaving the Tower we drove to 
Bond Street and took lunch at a restaurant there, 
after which we went shopping on Regent Street, 
at Robinson and Cleaver's, and at Peter Robin- 
son's, at Oxford Circus. Returned home and 
spent the evening talking over all we had seen. 

July 2'j. — Was the first rainy day we had had 
since leaving the United States. We remained 
at home all day. 

July 28. — Spent the day shopping. 

July 2Q. — In the morning we took a drive 
through the West End of London, returned to 
luncheon, and rested until four o'clock, when 
we went to Fuller's, on Regent Street, and had 
coffee. In the evening we went to Hyde Park, 
and came near being locked in the park, not 
knowing that the gates were locked at 8.30. 

July JO. — We spent the day at Richmond 
Park. 

July 57. — Spent the day at the British 
Museum, seeing as much as we could of the won- 
derful collection there. 

August I. — Spent the morning at the Zoolog- 
ical Garden. In the afternoon packed our trunks. 



15 

August 2. — Spent the day down town attend- 
ing to various things preparatory to our de- 
parture in the evening. Wfe left Miss' H.'s 
boarding house about 7.30 p. m., and Joseph, 
who had been our faithful servitor during our 
stay at Queen's Gardens, seemed truly sorry 
to part with us. He stood on the steps and 
watched us till our 'bus, with the trunks piled 
on top, was well out of sight. We drove to 
Charing Cross where we took the nine o'clock 
train for Paris, via Dover-Calais. We arrived 
at Dover about midnight, took the boat to 
Calais, arriving at one o'clock, after a beautiful 
moonlight trip across the channel. We then 
took the train to Paris and arrived there at six 
o'clock in the morning, August 3d. There was 
then the usual customs examination of luggage. 
We then drove to the Hotel Glatz on the Rue de 
Clichy, had coffee and rolls in our rooms, and 
proceeded to rest for a few hours, as we were 
tired out with the night's journey. In the after- 
noon the concierge procured us a fiacre and 
we drove through the Champs Elysees, past the 
Arc de Triomphe and through the Bois de Bou- 
logne, and saw some of the most beautiful man- 
sions in Paris. We stopped at one of the cafes 



i6 

in the Bois, and had coffee, then drove back to 
the hotel. The evening we spent in our rooms. 
August 4. — In the morning we walked from 
the hotel to the Boulevard des Italiens, passing 
the Opera House, then down the boulevard to 
the Madeline Church, after that we went to 
Cook's office to buy tickets for Geneva. Re- 
turned to the hotel for lunch, after which we 
walked through the Rue de La Paix, famous for 
its jewelry shops, and proceeded on our way 
to the Louvre, crossing the Rue de Rivoli. The 
Louvre, with its priceless treasures of art, in- 
comparable with any institution on earth of its 
kind! Once a royal palace, now the receptacle 
of the greatest art treasures of mediaeval and 
modern times. The Salon Carre, in which are 
placed Murillo's Immaculate Conception and the 
Wedding Feast of Cana. The galleries contain 
many works of almost all celebrated masters 
of olden times, the Venus de Milo and other 
statues. These, together with numberless art 
treasures of historical interest, all combine to 
make the Louvre indescribably beautiful and 
interesting. The evening we spent writing let- 
ters and preparing for our departure in the morn- 



17 

ing, reluctantly, on my part, as I would liked 
to have seen more of Paris. 

August 5. — We had breakfast at 6.30, then 
drove to the Gare de Nord, where we took the 
9.20 train to Geneva. The country through 
France was indeed beautiful, but, entering Switz- 
erland, with the high peaks all around us, I 
thought the grandest sight I had ever seen. We 
arrived at Geneva at 7.30 Sunday night. After 
having our trunks examined we drove to the 
Hotel Angleterre and selected our rooms, which 
were very pretty and comfortable, with a bal- 
cony attached, overlooking Lake Geneva. We 
then went down to the dining-room and had 
dinner and retired early. 

August 6. — While I waited for Miss S. and 
Mrs. B. before going to breakfast, I sat on the 
balcony and watched the lake and Mt. Blanc, 
which presented a majestic appearance, standing 
out in the distance. After breakfast we took a 
drive along the lake and through the town, 
passed the Cathedral, then drove to the river 
junction, and saw the River Rhone which is blue, 
and the River Arve which is white, come to- 
gether. This, with the intense green of the foli- 
age on the banks and the mountains in the dis- 



tance, makes a most picturesque sight. In the 
afternoon we walked along that beautiful prom- 
enade of La Treille, planted with chestnut trees, 
below which is the Botanic Garden, laid out by 
the celebrated Aug. de Chandolle. Then re- 
turned and sat on a bench along the quay oppo- 
site the hotel. In the evening we sat on the 
hotel porch and amused ourselves watching the 
people walking along the lake. 

August /. — Spent the morning shopping. In 
the afternoon took a drive through the town; 
returned about four o'clock and sat down by the 
lake to enjoy the beautiful scenery. In the 
evening sat on the hotel porch and saw a display 
of fireworks. 

August 8. — Spent most of the morning on the 
promenade La Treille. In the afternoon went 
shopping and prepared to leave the next morn- 
ing. 

August p. — We left Geneva at 6.50 for Inter- 
laken, and arrived at Lausanne, a very pretty 
place on Lake Geneva, at eight o'clock. Stopped 
there a few minutes, then passed on and arrived 
at Bern at 10.25, changed cars and had lay-over 
of twenty-three minutes. Bought sandwiches 
and beer from a little sunny-faced Swiss boy. 



19 

As we passed through the country I was intensely 
interested in seeing the picturesque Httle chalets 
with flower boxes at the windows, and I noticed, 
too, that some of the barns had crucifixes hang- 
ing on the doors. We stopped at Thun at 11.30. 
The scenery between Bern and Thun is most 
beautiful. The railway runs to the east for a dis- 
tance of about sixteen miles, then descends along 
the hill side, affording a magnificent view of the 
Bernese Alps. Our next stop was Spiez, which 
is charmingly situated on Lake Thun. We ar- 
rived at Interlaken at 12.30, left our trunks in 
the station and proceeded to look up a place 
where we could get luncheon. This we found 
in a pretty little garden cafe on the Hohenweg. 
The Hohenweg is an avenue of old walnuts and 
planes extending from the village of Aarmiihle 
to the upper bridge over the Aare and is filled 
with quaint but tempting little shops. The maid 
who served us with luncheon was dressed in her 
native costume, a bright red skirt, white guimpe 
and black velvet corsage which was very pic- 
turesque. We then procured a carriage and 
drove to several hotels and looked at rooms. 
Finally located at the Beau Site, which is a very 
pretty Pension with quite a beautiful, garden 



20 

attached and commanding a fine view of the 
Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger. Interlaken lies be- 
tween the lakes of Thun and Brienz and is a 
favorite summer resort, noted for its mild and 
beautiful climate, and consists of the villages of 
Interlaken, Matten and Unterseen. After our 
trunks had been sent for and unpacked, w'e 
walked into the town, which takes fifteen minutes 
from the Beau Site, and looked the shops over. 
In the evening we went to the Kursaal, on the 
Hohenweg, a cafe restaurant set in a beautiful 
garden, where there was a very fine orchestra. 
The price of admission was one franc each. 

August 10. — Had breakfast served in the gar- 
den at 8.30, a real Swiss breakfast, consisting 
of coffee, rolls and honey, then spent the morn- 
ing in the woods and walking along the hill- 
side where we could observe the Jungfrau, which 
looked so beautiful, covered with snow. The 
afternoon we spent in the town and the evening 
went to the concert in the Kur-garten again. 

August II. — We received the first mail from 
home, so spent the morning answering letters. 
In the afternoon we drove to Spiez, a beautiful 
drive along Lake Thun. The evening, as usual, 
went to the Kursaal. 



21 

August 12. — Was Sunday, so we remained at 
home in the morning, in the afternoon walked 
in town, stopped in one of the gardens on the 
Hohenweg, to have coffee, and heard some Ty- 
rolese yodHng. In the evening, while at dinner 
all the guests left the dining-room and walked 
out on the terrace to see the marvelously beauti- 
ful effect produced by the reflection of the sun 
as it was setting on the Jungfrau ; later on went 
to the Kursaal to the concert. There was also 
the most beautiful display of fireworks I have 
ever seen. 

August /J. — After breakfast we drove to Lau- 
.terbrunnen Valley by way of Wilderswil. It is 
a low, broad, rocky, valley with numerous 
streams or springs that descend from the rocks 
and from which it derives its name, ''nothing but 
springs." It is beautifully wooded with pines and 
many other trees, and in the distance one can see 
the pretty little chalets along the mountain side. 
The snow mountain to the left, rising above 
the hugh rocky precipices of the Schwarze- 
Monch, is the Jungfrau, and to the right is the 
Breithorn. We drove on through the valley, 
passing Staubach Falls, a fine white spray flow- 
ing out from the mountain top and descending 



22 

its side. In the bright sunshine it resembled 
a silvery veil. I was spell-bound, for never, in 
my wildest dreams, had I hoped to see anything 
so beautiful. We took our luncheon in a hotel 
at Lauterbrunnen, after which we walked to 
Triimmelbach Falls. We stood on a bridge to 
look at it, with our coats on, and held umbrellas 
over us. As the water rushes out madly from 
the rocks it beats against tht rock opposite, 
making a fine spray which gives the effect of 
being in a rain storm. It is fed by the glaciers 
of the Jungfrau. With the sun shining down 
upon it a beautiful double rainbow is formed 
in the spray. We returned late in the afternoon, 
did some shopping, then went to the Kursaal in 
the evening. 

August 14. — In the morning we drove to Wil- 
derswil. In the afternoon took a boat on Lake 
Thun and went to Oberhofen, about an hour and 
a half's ride from Interlaken. We were so 
charmed with the place that we made arrange- 
ments to go there to the Victoria Hotel on the 
1 6th, two days later. After having coffee in the 
garden we took the boat and rode once more 
down the beautiful Lake of Thun, with the 



23 

mountains on its banks. In the evening we re- 
mained at home. 

August 75. — In the morning we went in town 
and shopped. In the afternoon remained at 
home and wrote letters. In the evening went 
to the Kursaal. 

August 16. — In the morning packed our 
trunks. In the afternoon left Interlaken and 
went to Oberhofen, arriving there about four 
o'clock. There was a fiacre from the hotel 
awaiting us on our arrival at the boat-landino- 
The driver, with his dark-blue suit and white 
gloves, drove us up to the hotel, where we found 
part of the service lined up at the door to wel- 
come the newcomers. Our rooms were on the 
second sleeping floor overlooking the lake, with 
a charming little balcony attached, which we 
found especially attractive during our stay there. 
We dined at seven o'clock, then sat out in the 
garden and had our coffee served there. 

August ly. — In the morning it rained, so we 
remained in the hotel. In the afternoon it 
cleared and we went out to take a walk and 
stopped at one of the two shops which Oberhofen 
afforded. Also passed the town pump where we 
saw women washing clothes. In the evening 



24 

amused ourselves watching the children in the 
hotel playing games. 

August i8. — After breakfast sat on the bal- 
cony of my room for awhile enjoying the ex- 
quisite scenery across the lake. The embank- 
ment on the opposite side looked like little gar- 
dens laid out with the mountains in the back- 
ground. Later on we took a walk to a small 
town called Filterfingen. Returned to the hotel 
and had lunch, then took the boat to Thun, a 
twenty minutes' ride from Oberhofen. Thun is 
a quaint old town, beautifully situated on the 
Aare, and is the gateway into the Berner Ober- 
land. We were just in time for the concert 
at the Kursaal, after which we went shopping 
and returned to Oberhofen. The evening we 
spent in the garden. 

August ip. — In the morning it rained and was 
as cold as a November day in the States. We sat 
in our room with shawls on. After lunch it 
cleared and was quite warm again. We took a 
walk and on our return had coffee served in a 
little log house in the garden. The evening we 
spent in my room playing cards. 

August 20. — In the morning took a walk in 
the woods and stopped at a cafe down the moun- 



25 

tain side for tea. In the afternoon we went 
to Thun by boat, stopped at the Kursaal to hear 
the music, then walked through the queer Httle 
old town and shopped, then took a carriage and 
drove home; a beautiful drive along the lake 
In the evening we attended a concert in the 
hotel. 

August 21. — Was a perfectly beautiful morn- 
ing. We drove to Thun and shopped. In the 
afternoon we walked through the country and 
stopped in one of the gardens to have coffee. 
The evening we spent sitting on the balcony 
as it was a beautiful moonlight night. Those 
days spent at Oberhofen were very much alike, 
but I enjoyed every minute of them as the 
scenery was so magnificent and everything 
seemed so peaceful. I shall always retain in my 
mind the beautiful mental picture, which I car- 
ried away with me, of quiet little Oberhofen. 

August 22. — The morning was glorious and 
we spent in walking through the country. In the 
afternoon we went to Interlaken by boat. The 
evening was beautiful and clear. I thought the 
stars had never shone more brightly. We sat 
on the balcony of my room and listened to the 



26 

town band as it played on a little boat passing 
up and down along the lake. 

August 2 J. — The morning was warm and 
clear. After breakfast we drove to Beatus- 
hohle, a beautiful drive along the charmingly 
wooded banks of Lake Thun, attractive for either 
walking or driving. We found there the pic- 
turesque Falls of Beatenbach, which can be seen 
after ten minutes' walk from the entrance. On 
ascending the road which leads up to the Grotto 
one finds a little rustic bridge at each intersec- 
tion with the falls flowing down between, and 
which can all be seen as one sits in the garden 
cafe at the base. This is a beautiful and restful 
scene, especially on a warm day. We spent 
about an hour there, then drove back to the hotel. 
After luncheon we rested until four o'clock, 
then went out to walk and stopped at the Res- 
taurant zum Bar and had lemonade. The even- 
ing we spent in the garden. 

August 24. — In the morning we drove to 
Thun. The afternoon we spent napping, and 
in the evening sat on my balcony and listened 
to the town band again. 

August 25. — The morning was warm and sul- 
try so we sat in the garden and read. In the 



27 

afternoon went to Thun by boat and drove back, 
in the evening, after dinner, we had coffee served 
in the garden and sat out until quite dark, when 
we retired to our rooms to write letters. 

August 26. — In the morning we walked again 
to the little town of Filterfingen. In the after- 
noon we paid another visit to the Restaurant 
zum Bar, a garden cafe situated on the hillside, 
with a view of the road. While sitting there 
we saw two women hurrying along the road 
followed by two men carrying a tin bath tub, 
all talking excitedly, and we wondered what 
their trouble was, but soon learned that a woman 
had upset an alcohol stove over herself. Before 
those who hastened to her aid could reach her, 
she had burned to death. The evening we spent 
in our rooms feeling rather depressed from the 
excitement of the afternoon. 

August 2y. — Spent the entire day in my room 
owing to indisposition. 

August 28. — The morning was quite cool, so 
we took a brisk walk through the country and 
returned to luncheon. After we had lunched 
went to Thun by boat and attended the concert 
at the Kursaal; walked through the town and 
shopped, then drove back and retired early. 



28 

August 2p. — We took our favorite walk 
through the country. In the afternoon packed 
our trunks, then paid a farewell visit to the 
Bar garden. In the evening we sat on the 
balcony of my room, talking over the quiet, but 
most enjoyable, days we had spent there, and 
wondering if it would ever fall to our lot to 
visit Switzerland again, which I am happy to say 
I did the following summer. 

August JO. — We arose at seven o'clock and 
drove to Thun, where we took the 9.30 train to 
Lucerne. Arrived at Bern at 10.08, changed cars 
and had lay-over of forty-minutes, then pro- 
ceeded to Lucerne, enjoying again the beautiful 
views from both sides, on the right the hilly 
district of northern Switzerland, and to the left 
the Bernese Alps. We arrived at Lucerne at 
1.45^ left trunks at the station, but took our suit 
cases and drove to the National Hotel. After 
securing our rooms we set out immediately to 
see what we could, as we were only to remain 
over night. We managed to see and learn quite 
a little, considering how short a time we spent 
there. Lucerne is probably the most popular 
resort in Switzerland, especially so with English 
and American visitors who have made it fash- 



29 

ionable. It is beautifully situated at the head of 
Lake Lucerne with fine views of, and excursions 
to, the Rigi and Pilatus. The city itself has a 
number of places of interest, the most prominent 
of which is the noted Lion of Lucerne carved in 
a rock, by Thorwaldsen, in memory of officers 
and soldiers of the Swiss Guard who fell in the 
defence of the Tuileries in 1792. Other points 
of interest are the Schweizer Hof and National 
quays with their avenue of chestnuts, and the 
Hofkirche, said to have been founded in the sev- 
enth century. Also the Rathaus built in the 
middle of the sixteenth century. The old trian- 
gular bridge is another object of interest. Lu- 
cerne is quite a railroad center and the starting 
point of many excursions on the lake and to 
points far and near in the mountains. We saw 
the places mentioned above in the afternoon. In 
the evening we went to one of the gardens to 
hear some music. 

August JJ. — We left Lucerne at 9.08 in the 
morning for Bellagio. At 11. 15 we entered the 
St. Gotthard tunnel, emerging at the other end 
in about eighteen minutes. After that the coun- 
try was Italian in character, the villas had Ital- 
ian names and were not so well kept as in north- 



30 

ern Switzerland. At 1.25 we arrived at Lugano, 
having passed through sixty-four tunnels ; we 
changed cars there and were carried down an 
incline road to the level of the town ; we then 
walked through a narrow winding street to the 
boat landing. It was there that we gained our 
first impressions of an Italian town. It was not 
particularly clean, and the odor of garlic and 
cheese was very strong. At the landing we took 
a boat and crossed Lake Lugano to Porlezza, 
then went by train to Menaggio. The train was 
made up of queer little open compartment cars 
with red silk curtains, and was different from 
anything we had seen before. The railway runs 
on a narrow track overlooking a low broad val- 
ley about one hundred and fifty feet below. The 
country from Porlezza to Menaggio is perfectly 
exquisite. The coloring of the foliage is soft 
and beautiful and the mountains have a pinkish 
shimmer over them. Approaching Menaggio we 
could see Bellagio, which is at the head of the 
Peninsula, dividing Lakes Lecco and Como. We 
arrived at Menaggio at four o'clock where we 
took the boat and crossed Lake Como to Bel- 
lagio in fifteen minutes. The hotel 'bus met us 
at the landing and drove us up to the Grand 



31 

Hotel Bellagio, where we found the proprietor 
with his dog, the concierge, a big fat Italian, 
who looked like a good-sized hogshead, half a 
dozen waiters and the "boots," all lined up at 
the door to welcome the arrivals. We were 
quickly escorted to our rooms, which had been 
previously engaged. They were large and lux- 
urious, overlooking the garden. We then un- 
packed our trunks and got out our thin clothes, 
as it was hot in Bellagio. In the evening, after 
dinner, we walked through the grounds of the 
hotel, which fronts on Lake Como. To the left 
is a beautiful walk of low trees, forming an arch- 
way, with electric lights about eight feet apart 
peeping from the tops. We sat down on a 
bench there and soon found that it was quite 
a promenade for the young people. As I sat 
there I thought that for two people who really 
love each other it was an ideal spot, ideal en- 
vironment and ideal opportunity. 

September i. — In the morning we drove up a 
winding road which led to the highest point on 
the hill above the hotel, where the Villa Ser- 
belloni, in which Josephine lived during the 
Napoleonic invasion of Italy, is situated. It is 
a long, low building, with an annex on the end. 



32 

at right angles with the main building, and is 
now used as a Pension in connection with the 
Grand Hotel. The villa stands in a magnificent 
Italian garden, with a number of walks, one in 
particular is a winding path, overlooking Lake 
Lecco, affording a superb view, another leads 
to a very picturesque grotto, and, through the 
garden, there are a number of flower beds con- 
taining many rare and beautiful plants. We 
had our luncheon at the villa, after which we 
sat out in the garden, under a large palm tree, 
and had coffee served there. We then walked 
down a beautiful path, shaded by palm and rub- 
ber trees, to a tunnel which was cut in the rock 
to obtain the view on the other side. We re- 
turned to the hotel about three o'clock in the 
afternoon, and rested until time to dress for din- 
ner, after which we walked down to the town 
and through an arcade to see the quaint little 
Italian shops. 

September 2. — A beautiful, warm and clear 
morning. After breakfast we went down to the 
shops, then took the 'bus and drove up to the 
Villa Serbelloni, where we had our luncheon ; 
then sat in the garden under the most exquisite 
Italian sky, quiet and peaceful, not a sound, ex- 



33 

cept an occasional rustling of leaves, caused by 
a lizard scampering through them. We returned 
to the hotel late in the afternoon. In the even- 
ing, after dinner, we walked through the garden 
of the hotel and down the broad white stone 
steps which lead almost to the water's edge of 
Lake Como. Later on we sat out on top of a 
low building, arranged as a roof garden, watch- 
ing the searchlights moving along the shores of 
the lake on the opposite side to prevent smug- 
glers coming in. As we sat there we heard the 
beautiful strains from a violin, then a rich and 
full baritone voice rang out clearly in the night 
air. It came from one of the gardens below, 
where a sacred concert was being held. 

September 5. — After breakfast we took a row- 
boat and crossed the lake to Menaggio, to visit 
the famous Villa Carlotta, the property of the 
Duke of Saxe Meiningen. A guide met us 
at the gate and escorted us to a marble salon 
which contains many statues, one in particular is 
that of Cupid and Psyche. We were then taken 
through the garden, which is marvelously beau- 
tiful, with a wealth of southern vegetation, palms 
of every description, numerous gigantic rubber 
trees, and one magnolia tree which is a foot and 



34 

a half in diameter. We also walked through a 
trellis walk of lemon trees. After enjoying 
about an hour's stay in this most beautiful gar- 
den, which seemed like fairy land to me, we got 
in the boat, which had a pretty red canopy, and 
were rowed back to Bellagio. We took our 
lunch in the hotel, and in the afternoon packed 
our trunks. The evening we spent in the garden. 
September 4. — We left Bellagio at 9.16 for 
Como, and while at the landing, waiting to go 
aboard the boat, I saw eight women in a row 
kneeling down on the shore, washing clothes in 
the lake. The trip up Lake Como was a delight- 
ful one. From the boat we could command a 
fine view of its banks, with a number of small 
towns on both sides, and handsome villas, with 
luxurious gardens, back of which are many old 
chestnut and walnut trees. All this, together 
with the green mountains in the distance, over 
which was a pinkish hue, combined to make a 
scene of incomparable beauty. We arrived at 
Como about noon, and had lunch'eon at the 
Grand Hotel Plinius, one of the finest hotels on 
the Italian lakes. We left Como at two o'clock 
for Lucerne, where we arrived at 6.50 p. m., 
having passed through the St. Gotthard tun- 



35 

nel again. We went to the National Hotel, as 
before, and remained over night. 

September 5. — We left Lucerne at nine a. m., 
and arrived at Basel, which is the frontier town, 
at 11.50, where we had a lay-over of about two 
hours. We checked our luggage and boarded 
an electric tramway and rode to the Hotel of 
the ''Three Kings," where we had luncheon, 
then returned to the station and took the train 
to Baden Baden. On leaving Basel we had a 
glimpse of the Rhine. The country through 
Baden was rolling and very pretty. The farms 
gave evidence of careful cultivation aijd pro- 
ductiveness. We arrived at Baden Baden at 
5.17 p. m., and drove at once to the Hollan- 
discher Hof. We dined at seven o'clock, then 
went to the Kur Garten, where there are con- 
certs every afternoon and evening during the 
season. Baden Baden is very attractively sit- 
uated at the entrance of the Black Forest, sur- 
rounded by beautifully wooded hills, and is one 
of the most noted watering places in Europe. 
The Oosbach, a very pretty little stream, flows 
through the town. There are a number of min- 
eral springs, the most frequented of which is 
located in the Trinkhalle. Also two large, hand- 



36 

some and commodious bath houses, the Fried- 
rick's Bad and the Augusta Bad, the latter for 
women only. 

September 6. — At eight o'clock we walked to 
the Trinkhalle to drink the hot spring water be- 
fore breakfast. After breakfast we walked out 
the Lichtenthaler Alice, the most attractive walk 
in the vicinity, and extends along the left bank 
of the Oosbach, with fine old trees on both sides, 
surrounded by flower beds. On the left, beyond 
the brook, is a large tennis court and several 
fine hotels. On the right are picturesque villas 
and a number of garden cafes. Of all the 
wooded districts I have seen, none presents so 
beautiful and varied a landscape as the Lichten- 
thaler Alice In the afternoon we drove through 
the forest, with its sombre and stately pines, to 
the Jagd Haus, an inn, where we had coffee and 
cake, then back to the hotel. In the evening we 
went to the Kur Garten, which was decorated 
with red and yellow balloons hanging from the 
branches of the trees, producing a brilliant effect. 
In the garden were two pavilions, one with an 
orchestra, the other with a band, playing alter- 
nately. 

September /. — We went to the Trinkhalle, as 



37 

before, to drink the hot water before breakfast. 
Later on went shopping, then walked out the 
Lichtenthaler Allee, and returned to dinner at 
one o'clock. After dinner, we drove to the Altes 
Schloss, a large structure, part of which dates 
back to the third century, when the Romans con- 
structed some fortifications there, but has been 
a complete ruin since 1689, when it was de- 
stroyed by the French. The tower is accessible 
by stone steps, from which a view of the Rhine 
Valley, in the distance, and the beautiful valley 
of Baden is obtained. There is also a restaurant 
there, and shady seats in the open air, where 
visitors may rest and refresh themselves. It was 
a glorious September day, and we enjoyed the 
drive to the Altes Schloss and back very much. 
In the evening we went, as usual, to the Kur 
Garten, and I was intensely interested in seeing 
the bourgeoisie as they strolled through the gar- 
den, with huge Alsatian bows of black sash rib- 
bon on their heads. 

September 8. — We went, as usual, to the 
Trinkhalle. After breakfast we drove to the 
Gerolsau Falls, passing through Lichtenthal, a 
small village with quaint little hamlets. We re- 
turned to dinner at one o'clock, after which we 



38 

had coffee served out on the terrace ; then 
walked through the forest and up the favorite 
walk of the Empress Augusta. In the evening 
we went to the Kur Garten, which was still dec- 
orated with red and yellow balloons, "the Baden 
colors." There was a magnificent display of 
fireworks, the last of which was a bust figure of 
the Grand Duke. The celebration was in honor 
of the eightieth birthday of the Grand Duke, 
which occurred the following day, Sunday, Sep- 
tember 9th. 

September p. — In the morning we went shop- 
ping, then walked out the Kaiser Allee, and re- 
turned to dinner, as usual, at one o'clock. In the 
afternoon we drove again to the Jagd Haus. In 
the evening we remained in our rooms, and had 
coffee served there, as it was quite cool out of 
doors. 

September 10. — After breakfast we walked 
through the town, passing the bath houses, which 
are very fine buildings. In the afternoon we 
took our favorite walk out the Lichtenthaler 
Allee; stopped in one of the cafes to have cof- 
fee. The evening we spent writing letters. 

September 11. — We devoted the morning to 
shopping. In the afternoon we took a farewell 



39 

walk out the beautiful Lichtenthaler Allee; re- 
turned to the hotel about four o'clock, and drank 
coffee in the garden. In the evening we packed 
our trunks. 

September 12. — We drove to the Bahn Hof 
immediately after breakfast, where we took the 
9.10 train to Paris, via Strassburg. We arrived 
at Avricourt, the frontier town, at 11. 12, French 
time, and the customs inspector came into the 
compartment to examine our luggage. We ar- 
rived at Nancy at 12.30, and had a lay-over of 
half an hour. A boy brought our luncheon in 
baskets from the station restaurant. The coun- 
try through France is flat, and not so picturesque 
as the other countries. We arrived at Paris at 
6.20 p. m. Such a bustle and jabbering I never 
heard before! We then had our trunks exam- 
ined, and drove to the Gare de Nord, where we 
dined, and took the nine o'clock train to Calais, 
arriving there at 1.15 in the morning; then 
crossed the channel to Dover, where we took the 
3.30 train to London. Arrived at London at six 
o'clock on Thursday, September 13th. After 
our luggage was examined, which took about 
an hour, we drove to Queen's Gardens, as be- 
fore, and retired at once to sleep until about ten 



40 

o'clock. Then we breakfasted, went down town, 
and stopped at Brown Shipley's for our mail. 
We next went to the old tea house on Bond 
Street for luncheon, and it seemed so good to be 
in London once more, as I had become quite 
fond of the city during our previous stay there. 
In the afternoon we strolled through Hyde Park, 
and the evening we spent in our rooms, as it 
rained. 

September 14. — After breakfast we drove 
down to Dickens and Jones, where I purchased a 
long coat and other necessary articles for the 
steamer trip. We then took our luncheon at 
Fuller's, on Regent Street, after which we drove 
to Hyde Park, where we had tea at five o'clock. 
In the evening we remained at home. 

September ij. — Immediately after breakfast 
we went to Brown Shipley's to cash our letters 
of credit, then spent the rest of the day in vari- 
ous department shops. 

Sunday, September 16, was a cold, rainy day, 
and we were obliged to stay indoors until about 
four o'clock, when it cleared, and we drove down 
to the Cecil Hotel and had coffee there, return- 
ing to supper at 8.30, which was the hour for sup- 
per on Sunday evenings at Queen's Gardens. I 



41 

suppose it was arranged so that people might 
attend church at six o'clock. 

September //. — It was a bright, clear morn- 
ing, but seemed quite wintry. I was very com- 
fortable in my heavy coat. We went to the Army 
and Navy store to shop, then to Brown Shipley's 
to change money ; then to Euston Station to order 
our 'bus for the next day, to take us and our 
belongings to the station. When we got home 
we found we had not enough English money to 
last until we left, so we went back to Brown 
Shipley's. It being our last day in London, we 
had a great deal to attend to. We returned late 
in the afternoon. After dinner we packed our 
trunks for the steamer. 

September i8. — We left Queen's Gardens with 
many farewells, and the same sad looks from 
Joseph and the rest of the service as before. 
We drove to Euston Station and took the 10.45 
train to Liverpool where we boarded the "Iver- 
nia" once more, and set sail to America at 4.30 
p. m. We made ourselves comfortable in our 
steamer chairs where we remained until dinner 
time. In the evening we walked around the 
deck until about nine o'clock when we retired 
to our staterooms. 



42 

The next day, September 19th, we made a 
landing at Queenstown at 11. 15. I was very 
much amused at an Irish woman who came out 
in a rowboat to sell laces to the passengers on 
board. After leaving Queenstown I took no 
more interest in the voyage until the day of 
landing, as I felt too sick, and spent most of 
my time in my stateroom. When one is sick 
nine days on the ocean seems a long while, and 
when at last the 28th of September arrived, the 
excitement of landing on our native shores was 
so keen I felt quite well again. We did not get 
into Boston Harbor until evening, but some of 
the passengers were up at five o'clock in the 
morning with hats and coats on, all ready to walk 
off the boat the next minute. At five o'cock in 
the afternoon everyone was assembled in the 
dining-room to make customs declarations, and 
at 6.30", amid the wildest enthusiasm, we were 
land once more on American soil. It was eight 
o'clock before we were through with the examin- 
ing of trunks and off the docks. We drove at 
once to the Bellevue Hotel in Boston, where we 
remained over night and took the eight o'clock 
train next morning to New York. 
• September 2p. — We lunched at the Savoy 



43 

Hotel and took the 3.30 train to Philadelphia, 
arriving about six o'clock in the evening, after 
the most enjoyable summer I ever experienced. 



FINIS. 



- 19 ^^ 



